Watches and Wonders 2025 is the largest edition ever, coinciding with Rolex’s 120th anniversary and the 70th milestone of the GMT-Master. What new releases can we expect? Moreover, the eagerly awaited successor to the Patek Philippe Cubitus and Cartier, the brand that ranked second only to Rolex in watch sales last year, warrants our attention. Today, ARISTO shares our “Watches and Wonders 2025 predictions” for the design directions of these three luxury brands!
Rolex GMT-Master II :
2025 marks Rolex’s 120th anniversary and the beloved GMT-Master series‘ 70th anniversary. Market rumors suggest that the iconic “Pepsi” bezel (blue/red) will be discontinued, while the “Coke” bezel (black/red), which has been discontinued since 2007, might be making a strong comeback!
Some speculate that Rolex may release a 38mm “no crown guard” vintage GMT-Master commemorative edition. Following the new-generation Daytona, they could also introduce a transparent caseback version, similar to the Ice Blue Daytona (Ref:126506).
For gem enthusiasts, watch for a possible return of the Serti dial series featuring ruby and diamond hour markers!
Datejust :
The Datejust series is also celebrating its 80th anniversary. The brand’s recent exploration of gemstone dials presents a perfect opportunity for special editions. Malachite, tiger’s eye, or onyx could become the next unique Datejust dial!
Explorer 2 :
Explorer 2, which increased to 42mm in 2011 for enhanced durability in extreme conditions, may revert to a more versatile 40mm Polar version after 14 years, making it more accessible to female collectors.
1908 :
After two consecutive years of new releases, the 1908 series might break through functionally this year, possibly adding a moonphase display at the small seconds position, further solidifying its status as a dress watch.
Rolex Tridor :
Finally, as precious metal values keep rising, mixed metals might become the next trend, with the historically significant three-tone Tridor bracelet possibly returning thanks to improved craftsmanship!
Patek Philippe Nautilus :
Following ARISTO reports of PP removing the 5712/1A from their official website, marking the end of this super-complicated steel king’s era. This news naturally shocked the watch community – what model will replace this 19-year-old Steel King? A comparable new reference will likely be released since the 5712 emerged after the 90% similar 3712 was discontinued. Additionally, PP’s marketing strategy might aim to reduce steel watch ratios, focusing more on precious metal timepieces. We predict the 5712/1A will likely retain its moonphase and calendar functions, launching in platinum or yellow gold. A bolder prediction suggests a 5712 with a composite strap and platinum case, similar to the Cubitus 5822.
Aquanaut :
Additionally, the new Aquanaut may feature fresh colorways with matching rubber straps. In 2024, various brands experimented with purple and red dials. For example, OMEGA released a red Seamaster in 2025; will PP embrace this bold color trend?
Cubitus :
Last year, the Cubitus received mixed reactions from the market. The brand is boldly countering the small watch trend with larger sizes—perhaps aiming to revive the large sports watch trend. This year, we predict Cubitus will launch full gold or rose gold versions, while the 5821/1A may incorporate 5712/1A complications in a steel version. Watch enthusiasts who cannot acquire a Nautilus might find the Cubitus a worthy alternative.
Cartier:
With nearly 180 years of history, Cartier has always been a favorite among women. Beyond the essential Cartier Love and JUSTE UN CLOU bangles that every stylish woman and successful executive should own, the Cartier Tank watch remains versatile for any occasion.
In the past two to three years, many American celebrities have been spotted wearing Cartier Vintage timepieces, resulting in a “Cartier wave” in the market and attracting traditional watch enthusiasts back to the brand. The rise of social media watch influencers and the relatively affordable price points for some classic models have further enhanced the brand’s popularity. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, we expect Cartier to capitalize on the 40th anniversary of the Pasha collection. While it may not be their most popular line, the anniversary offers an excellent opportunity for design refinements, particularly in sizing, with potential 28mm and 38mm variants. We also look forward to seeing more diverse designs for the Tank and BAIGNOIRE collections.
Cartier Tank :
Following the black lacquer dial Tank, could we expect more luxurious stone dials?
BAIGNOIRE :
The vintage BAIGNOIRE has recently regained popularity, suggesting that the brand may incorporate vintage elements into current BAIGNOIRE models. For example, they could revive the stepped case design from the original BAIGNOIRE 78094, potentially positioning this series as the next successful reissue.
Cartier Crash :
Following several high-value Cartier Crash sales at auctions, the market demonstrates a strong interest in uniquely shaped timepieces. Cartier may even explore bolder case designs! While the brand is unlikely to release watches similar to the Crash, we hope to see more innovative designs from them.
Which Watches and Wonders 2025 predictions stand out to you? In addition to new releases, some models likely to be discontinued are worth mentioning, like the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” and the stainless steel Nautilus 5726/1A. These pieces have great potential for value appreciation and collectibility.
More GMT-Master II and Nautilus are waiting for you at ARISTO.
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